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Showing posts with label photo/essay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photo/essay. Show all posts

Daily Update: MIRROR LAKE SCENIC BYWAY Access & SNOW DEPTH on BALD MT. PASS -- GLITCH SOLVED -- SPINE BEEFED UP -- THE HIGHLINE TRAIL -- PROPOSED BACKPACKS FOR 2017

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Scheduled DREAMS for 2017 (82nd year) Combining with it the ENTIRE HIGHLINE TRAIL...if my  "ANTI-AGING CHALLENGE" formula keeps doing its MIRACLE!

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BALD MOUNTAIN PASS & MIRROR LAKE SCENIC BYWAY
This area's opening status is a great gauge for the beginning of backpacking in the Uintas - the Highline Trail in the same area & the altitude about the same as the "Gateway to the Grandaddies" at Hades Pass.
SNOW DEPTH - Temp. at 5:00 pm - BALD MOUNTAIN PASS - 10,759 ft.
- status MIRROR LAKE SCENIC BYWAY - 

June 2 
- EXPLORATION OF MIRROR lAKE SCENIC BYWAY & PHOTO REPORT
June 1 - 58" - closed - 41 degrees F.
May 31 - 59" - closed - 54 degrees F.
May 30 - 61.6" - closed - 53 degrees F.
May 29 - 64" - closed - 47 degrees F.
May 28 - 65" - closed - 48 degrees F. 
May 27 - 68" - closed - 40 degrees F.
NOTE:  On Friday, May 26th I talked to Brenda at the Forest Service office in Kamas who reports that they are  "working on clearing drifts from 6' to 12' deep, but some key equipment broke down and work has been suspended.  It will be about 2 weeks before the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway is open."   
I suspect that it will likely be sooner, depending on the thaw, and will update every day & keep working on getting in shape for the 1st backpack into the Grandaddies.
May 25 - 70" - closed - 40 degrees F.
May 24 - 71" - closed - 50 degrees F.
May 23 - 74" - closed - 49 degrees F.
May 22 - 77" - closed - 40 degrees F.
May 21 - 79" - closed - 34 degrees F.
May 20 - 77" - closed - 34 degrees F.
May 19 - 79" - closed - 24 degrees F.
May 18 - 81" - closed -  23 degrees F.
May 17 - 81" -  closed - 20 degrees F.
May 16 - 75" - closed
May 15 - 75" - closed
May 14 - 78" - closed
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May 17
WOLF CREEK PASS IS NOW OPEN
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UPDATE MARCH 27th
GLITCH!....NOW SOLVED,..95%?
The previous post has  my enthusiastic plans for 2017-- BUT HERE UPDATED  added on at the end of the UPDATED photo/essay on the HIGHLINE TRAIL, 

On Monday, March 13, 2017, Dr. C. William Bacon of the Sports Medicine &  Orthopedic Clinic in Orem, Utah extended the fusion of vertebrates 4 & 5, to include #6. 
In the left frontal view, you can also see my titanium hip

  Recovery today at 2 weeks is surprising the medical community, nonetheless, there will be no International Half Marathon in Guatemala until May 2018.   Today,  March 27th,  my walking routine has stretched to 3 miles, including an occasional careful jog crossing streets to avoid being run over--and joyfully no pain is experienced in the left leg, which previous pain started this new episode in my 81st year.  Distances will continue to increase. By May 13th, a light backpack will be included in the routine,  beginning with 20 lbs. and each day will be added to, May 24 the weight to 36 lbs, and will continue until backpacking begins.  Short jogs, without backpack, will also be done every other day, along with all kinds of exercises 
So for 2017, I'll concentrate on the High Uintas Project, and of course, keep the Guatemalan Foundation going to the end of August..to complete our GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY YEAR ...hoping some donors will give in 5 months what they normally do in 12!
http://www.guatemalanfoundation.org/

THE BACKPACKING SEASON FOR 2017?
Utah's record snowfall will undoubtedly affect backpacking, as was the case in 2011 when backpacking in the High Uintas wasn't possible until mid-July.  This likely will force modifications in my scheduled backpacks, at least one of them being added to doing the entire HIGHLINE TRAIL in August, beginning at the eastern end near Flaming Gorge and finishing at the Trailhead on the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway!
Other than this  back glitch, my Anti-Aging Challenge formula is 
working so well  the modified list of backpacks at the end of this post is the dream for 2017--at 81+ or in my 82nd year:
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NOTE:  By the way, if you don't know about the Dinovite potential and its amazing qualities for solving all our nutritional, longevity and mental problems, check them out at the end of my ANTI-AGING CHALLENGE article on my website.
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Following is the slightly modified post on:

THE FAMOUS HIGHLINE TRAIL
Many have seen the Trailhead sign along the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway, under Hayden Peak, as the highway is about to descend towards Wyoming.  It is located at 10,378 ft. and from here heads east.



At the WESTERN HIGHLINE TRAILHEAD there is a nice area for horse packers with restrooms, and a parking lot for backpackers with Restrooms and water, where this nice sign and register are found.  


Down the trail, a bit, and here and there along the trail are found signs to guide hikers venturing into the Wilderness Area.

The HIGHLINE TRAIL is easily the most famous trail in the Uintas, most of it from its well-known Trailhead pictured here at Hayden Pass on the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway and from here it heads east following the spine of the High Uinta Mountains over 8 above timberline passes.   It is usually thought that it ends about 80 miles to the east on the slopes of Leidy Peak, where there is a trailhead above Hacking Lake. 

But, that's not where it ends or starts.  It rather has its beginning around 26 miles more to the east along U.S. Highway 191 that starts at Vernal and heads north to Flaming Gorge Dam and continues north into Wyoming. Below I'll insert a labeled Google Earth view of the High Uinta Mountain Range showing the Western & Eastern HIGHLINE TRAILHEADS, plus most of the rivers and creeks that flow from the Uintas where 90% of Utah's water is produced.
click on image to enlarge
The light colored areas are the above timberline areas & peaks
As we are seeing, the Uintas begin at Kamas, Utah on the west, and end about 150 miles to the east at the Green River.  It is the only major mountain range in the lower 48 states to be oriented east to west.
 That EASTERN HIGHLINE TRAILHEAD 
will be the focus of this photo/essay, but first, let's understand a little better the subject of "TRAILHEADS" & "SIGNS"  in the  Uinta Mountains.


These kinds of signs are common all around the Wilderness area, here on the Uinta River.


Even nicer ones are found in some areas like what many of us call
"THE GATEWAY TO THE GRANDADDIES,"
seeing here the entrance to the parking lot.........

.......and nice signs giving adventurers all the information they need for a great outdoor experience.

Just past the register,  as the trail begins, we find appreciated information on how far we have to hike to get to whatever our destination might be in the Basin.

Even years ago up the trail from the Grandview Trailhead, at Hades Pass,  when it was just the 
HIGH UINTAS PRIMITIVE AREA,
 this great sign seen above told us about the wonders we were about to see (1954).
But, it disappeared many years ago and is sorely missed!

In 2003, when I began my HIGH UINTAS WILDERNESS PROJECT, this great sign was still in the Grandaddies, between Grandaddy & Betsy Lakes, but on the ground and I had to prop it up for this picture....but it is of course now gone.

THE FAR EASTERN END....or BEGINNING
From Vernal, Utah the highway climbs into the eastern end of the High Uinta Mountains, and at 28 miles from Vernal, one reaches the pass, seen below, approximately 2,300 feet lower than Bald Mountain Pass on the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway, near the Western Highline Trailhead.

At this point, we have traveled 186 miles from American Fork, Utah and the Wasatch Front.  Most of the traffic zeros in on The Flaming Gorge Recreation Area, just a few miles further north.

But, what we are looking for is the Eastern end of  or the beginning of,
 THE HIGHLINE TRAIL.  
At a low point 3 miles down from the Pass, and just beyond the Interpretive  Display, we find a simple generic sign indicating that off to the west on a dirt road there is a trail, but, WHAT TRAIL?



Shortly we come to a small sign with little detail. We have found.....

.
....THE EASTERN END OF THE 
GREAT HIGHLINE TRAIL


No really pertinent information.  
No register.  No mileage signs.  No hint of where it goes.   Only a faded, worn out map!

It seems like a humiliating beginning for what is a GREAT TRAIL.
SOMETHING HAS TO BE DONE!
COME ON FOREST SERVICE--LET'S GET SOME NICE SIGNS FOR THIS GREAT 

I hiked down the trail, well worn by the blessed ATV's, to see if there was a sign, any kind of sign, but there were just the expected Forest Service markers you see here




And a very old blaze on a couple of trees, plus some newer ones.



 There were signs of road/trail work, and a bridge over what I believe is Carter Creek.



Along with efforts to keep the ATVs from ruining everything.



NO MILEAGE SIGNS WERE FOUND!
My topographical maps indicate that the trail heads up this draw, eventually going through the thick forest and over that low saddle to the west.

NOTE:  After first being advised that the eastern end of the trail was nearly impassable with deadfall, good news came from new High Uinta Friend, John Parker who emailed me, saying:
Cordell, I hope to see you on the Uinta Highline between Aug 15 and Sept 15. Those are the target for my hike of the Highline this year.
Good news for you! The trail between Hwy 191 and Leidy Peak was adopted a couple years back by the Uintah Basin Back Country Horsemen. They have cleared and maintained that first 20+ miles as a service project. My understanding is that it's not impassable but now nicely maintained. Still, need good navigation skills but not a mess.


John Parker

FOREST SERVICE CONTACT
Later I was contacted by Rhett Burkman, from the Forest Service Vernal office, and advised that the trail had been cleared by the Backcountry Horsementhat "trail signs have a habit of disappearing on this section of trail" and he would make sure they check the trail as soon as they have access. 


ALL GREAT NEWS FOR THIS 80+ YEARS OLDER, AS "DEADFALL" IS REALLY HARD FOR ME!  

Let's insert again our Google Earth view to help visualize the wonderful Uinta Mountains we are talking about.
The light colored areas are the above timberline areas & peaks
click to enlarge image 
From the Eastern Trailhead, seen above on the right, the trail gradually--over 26 miles, climbs from 8,000 ft. to  Leidy Peak where it is above the 11,000 ft. timberline. From there it follows the spine of the Uinta Range for 80 miles traversing rugged alpine terrain as seen below, climbing 8 passes all over 11,00o ft., 3 of which are over 12,000.   12,600 ft. Anderson Pass being the highest near Kings Peak, Utah's highest at 13,528 ft. 

PUTTING INTO PERSPECTIVE THE PASSES...
...more than half of the 8 passes are higher than the summit of Mt. Timpanogos that is dwarfed by the High Uinta peaks!
 The elevation profile high points are said passes, the profile showing the ups and downs of the 106-mile distance between trailheads, the western one near Mirror Lake at 10,378 ft.  


The trail only dips a few times below timberline.


In 2016 as I was on my way to finally get to Little Andy Lake, Utah's highest at 12,302 ft.,  I met  John Sowell, from Colorado,  and had a great conversation as he was doing the entire HIGHLINE TRAIL coming from the east.


I told him about my plan years ago to do it too, even having printed a series of 14 topographical maps for the adventure, but then a glitch ambushed me and it looked like I would have to get used to being a cripple.   Then I told him of the miracle that had me without pain for the first time in 30 years, with at that moment being on the verge of what I was thinking would be my last adventure--getting to my lake.

But since meeting him, and being so pumped up for having finally got to Little Andy Lake, I'm now training for the best summer of backpacking of my life--in my 82nd year, the crowning trip being in August  backpacking the entire
HIGHLINE TRAIL FROM EAST TO WEST!
Thanks, John, for inspiring me!
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Scheduled backpacks for Summer 2017
Note:  Depending on the thaw
1.  GRANDADDIES:  down past Lost & Powell Lakes, to pick up two missed, RANGE & JEFF  LAKES & if all goes well,  swing up to Pine Island Lake, and back past Fish Hatchery, Betsy & Grandaddy Lakes:   30+ miles, 4 days. NOTE: Date depending on conditions  in June, in other words, the thaw.
2.  MIDDLE FORK BEAVER CREEK:  Will explore Beaver, Coffin & other lakes, & will climb Thompson Pass, leaving 2 passes to go to achieve all 22 in the Wilderness.  30 miles 5 days.
3.  From E. Fk Blacks Fk Trailhead:  To Little East Fork of Blacks Fork and   UPPER ALPINE/ABOVE TIMBERLINE LAKES.  20 miles, 4 days.
4.  TWOROOSE PASS (with which only North Pole Pass remains) from the Lake Fork Trailhead up to the  Brown Duck Basin, Pass, & lakes.  35 miles, 6 days.
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IMPORTANT
Keep an eye on this website as summer approaches for more details, and get my link to the SPOT Personal Satellite Tracker , which I go nowhere without, and follow my progress, & make sure and listen every Saturday morning to hear my satellite phone reports on  Tim Hughes' KSL OUTDOORS RADIO, program. 
Satellite phone acquired from Russ Smith & SKYCALL SATELLITEwhere you can get yours for your outdoor adventures.
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THEN.......Originally Scheduled for Summer 2018 in my 83rd year--now changed to August 2017

THE CROWNING BACKPACK OF THE 
HIGH UINTAS WILDERNESS PROJECT
BACKPACKING 
THE FAMOUS HIGHLINE TRAIL

On this approximately 14 day backpack, I will take some detours to explore other areas critical to my project, such as:


   Another visit to Little Andy Lake--taking the time to get better pictures,  and continuing the detour to Trail Rider Pass, Beard Lake, & George Beard Basin,
Next, the unexplored lakes in the Upper Garfield Basin, others in the Oweep Drainage, plus very importantly, Crater Lake you see below and others.
I will attempt one more time to realize a goal of getting the perfect photograph of this incredibly beautiful scene--CRATER LAKE, the deepest in the Uintas at 147 ft. The plan is to get up on the saddle to the north so I can look down on the lake and with a fish-eye lens photograph it with Explorer Peak in the background.
  
Approximately 136 miles.
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EXPLORING THE BUCKLEY MOUNTAIN PIONEER TIMBER SLIDE....THE 1ST SLIDE IN 1853

SCROLL DOWN FOR BUCKLEY MT. EXPLORATION
PREVIOUS POSTS:

*THE ASSAULT ON "LITTLE ANDY LAKE"

*PIONEER TIMBER SLIDES:  Slide Canyon to top of Slide Mountain

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                                                             CHECK OUT THE  SPECIAL FACEBOOK PAGE:
 Cordell Andersen Photography, and the STORE
where many of my photographs from the High Uintas are available. If you don't see in the STORE what interests you, but find it in the 

Photography,  or in one of my trip reports, let me know and I'll advise the site manager to get it there. 

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UPDATE September 29, 2016:
Since my last heavy duty backpack in the High Uintas,  I revealed my SECRET SIX SUPPLEMENTS, that I have done my best to show  how  they effectively help me meet my goal of (sort of tongue in cheek....but SERIOUS BUSINESS!):  
"BEING 80+, LOOKING LIKE 60, BEHAVING LIKE 30, & WEIGHING LIKE WHEN 20!"
Note:  They are listed towards the end of the 
  Doing this has  boosted me to a higher level I never thought possible for an old guy!  I hope & pray that a few can be blessed by all of this, just as I have been.  
Hope to meet you on the trail.....
Cordell M Andersen

FOR DETAILS GO TO ARTICLE ON MY WEBSITE and GEAR/SUPPLEMENTS
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September 20, 2016
EXPLORING TODAY THE BUCKLEY MOUNTAIN TIMBER SLIDE.... 
& FINISH WHAT I STARTED IN 2014 WHEN AFTER A MILE OR SO REALIZED I WAS SICK WITH "SHINGLES" & HAD TO RETREAT TO CIVILIZATION
THE FIRST TIMBER SLIDE AUTHORIZED
I quote  information that comes from 

'
"The Utah County Court Minutes, from February through July 1853."

"Early in 1853, Alfred Walton, Jerome Benson, and a Mr. Wilson received permission from the Utah County Court to build a timber slide down the canyon located between the two peaks rising south of Slate Canyon.  This slide would be located conveniently between Provo and Springville.  In order for the grant to be valid the company had to build the slide during the coming season.  If the men constructed the slide, they could control it and have jurisdiction over the timber on the mountain above it.."  

This permission was granted first, for the area known as Buckley Mountain that has two peaks, with a ravine separating the higher on the north from the lower on the south--located between Provo & Springville, Utah.  So via Google Earth from the Y Mt./Slide Canyon/Mt. area east of Provo, we fly south to Buckley Mountain.

Driving south along the Wasatch Front in Utah, you  get on the old highway between Provo and Springville, Utah, driving along the two Buckley Mountain peaks where the first timber slide was constructed.

The yellow arrows point at the slide pathway which can be seen in the following views during different seasons of the year.

Here seeing the lower end  near where the lumber products were loaded into wagons in the area seen below from Google Earth
the pathway  right here V
Most of the roadways and excavations seen in this view are from more modern times. The "V" in the above caption points to the pioneer slide pathway that angles across the picture and ends in a sort of triangle shaped area.

The slide pathway is very visible from the highway, going up the right side of the draw, seen above in late Fall & early Winter.

Below, we see it in two photographs in early Fall.  This is not a hiking trail as I assumed for many years, rather the pathway of the timber slide created in 1853....163 years ago.
It appears that the slide pathway began at the rock outcrop in the left upper corner of the photograph below, or ends there as we go up.


Below follow Google Earth views showing a series of images from the bottom  up to the rock outcrop.



The SPOT Tracking icon is where I got to in 2014 when I realized I was sick with shingles  and had to turn back....fueled by PROTEIN PLUS!  
The slide pathway ends in the shadows of the rock outcrop.

September 20, 2016
WE BEGIN THE NEW EFFORT
Looking down from my parking place between Provo & Springville

AGAIN,  BETTER PREPARED TO FOLLOW THE
TIMBER SLIDE PATHWAY
With elk skin gloves and long sleeved shirt to protect me from the heavy vegetation, which, as I have mentioned is worse than any jungle I've ever encountered in Guatemala.


From this spot, halfway up the foothills, taking me above the quarries along the highway, there is a game trail that takes me up to the beginning of the timber slide pathway.





In the above photo the pathway angles diagonally across the picture.

The valley is smokey due to several forest fires in the mountains up Spanish Fork Canyon.
All of a sudden the sound of helicopters passing overhead has me looking up and seeing three of them heading for the fires.

Those who know me, realize that you will be blessed by me sharing  a few of my
VISIONS OF NATURE along the way.


There are many of such VISIONS !




I"m now up the first steep climb....and climbing up always, here through a grassy area where on the ground the pathway is quite noticeable, but not visible in the picture.

Looking back to keep us in touch with where we are.

Again into the very visible pathway going up through the scrub oak & maple jungle....

......and from the same spot looking down.
As I struggled up....and it was a lot steeper than these picture show, I began realizing that just two days rest since my difficult ascent up the Slide Canyon Timber slide, maybe wasn't enough, and I began thinking of perhaps turning back....but short rest stops had me pressing on.


It was at about this spot that I ran out of food and water as I had in my mind that this was to be a quick, short hike.  But it was turning into a bit more than that for an old 80 year old and I decided I'd best turn back.

But, again, after a bit of rest decided to just go a little further to get a better view of where I was.
All the unique rock formations are on the north side of the ravine.

That "little further" had come into view the rock outcroppings where I knew the slide pathway started, or ended.
So I pressed on to reach my goal.



All of a sudden I reached the area where on Google Earth views I could see small  cleared spaces  in the area where timber products were brought  from up higher, and loaded into the slide,  "trough" or "chute."

It was in this area where I hoped to find artifacts, even though by now I was coming to understand that, over 160 years of time most wood remnants would have likely rotted away.  
We weren't dealing here with the kind of tropical wood we had in Guatemala that literally lasted for even thousands of years in Mayan ruins--and which wood we used in areas like Chulac, mentioned in my previous post, to make outhouse floors that wouldn't rot.

I fought my way through the scrub oak and maple  to find the cleared spaces, looking for artifacts.


And, finally found ONE!  You see it below, a very rusty artifact.  

 I did, as I have tried to do with tie hacker artifacts, leaving them in place  for scientific examination. In this case it's not likely that any archaeologist will ever go up that mountain, and so I should have brought it home to preserve and examine carefully....and maybe will go get it one of these days. 
Did tin cans exist in the time of the timber slides?

THE HISTORY OF TIN CANS
It began in France in 1795 when Napoleon Bonaparte offered a reward for someone inventing a method of preserving food for his military forces.  Finally, in 1809, Nicolas Appert won the reward developing the sterilization method of preserving foods, but using glass bottles.  A year later in England, Peter Durand patented the tin can for preserving food.  By 1847-49 machines were patented in the U.S. for making tin cans speeding up the process from 5-6/hour to 50-60/hour, and preserved foods grew in popularity.  By 1866 an improved method of sealing the cans was patented. 

So in the time of the Pioneer Timber Slides, tin cans existed.  Whether my find was from then, who knows.....but,  since the slides,  nothing else much has happened in that area to have a rusty tin can be there.
IN THE MEANTIME....ONE CONCLUSION:
Those who worked up on Buckley Mountain were pretty good at abiding by LAW #1:
"LEAVE NO TRACE!"  

Below are views of VISIONS OF NATURE taken from the rock outcropping where the timber slide pathway ended......

Looking to the north

Looking to the south

Swinging down a little to the southwest

Looking down where I had come from....and now had to head down......

.......and zooming in on my car that I had to get to for food and water!

Down I go, looking back to the northeast, and showing below a 2014 exploration picture at  one of the previously shown  rock outcroppings.

Below is shown the Google Earth SPOT TRACKER view of the exploration, with #6 slightly mistaken showing I was on the north side of the ravine--which never happened.

Last of all we are seeing a view of the lower end of the slide pathway that curves across  the picture where the lumber products were loaded into wagons and hauled to build Springville.


Last of all I quote again the ending from the previous post:
"Large logs as well as small ans [ones] would run with great rapidity....We would often start timbers at the top end of the slide an[d] it would run the entire [way to the] loading place with out a stop."  
Then quoting the journal of a John C. Dowdle,   who wrote:   [It worked] "admirably as far as tried."  John and his brother  Robert, worked on the construction of the slide, harvested logs to be used as fuel and lumber, and slide them down the chute. Since lumbermen used the slide mainly in the winter, they labored under unfavorable working conditions.  Dowdle said at times the snow was from two to eight feet deep on the mountain.  Alexander P. Chesley, who helped cut and slide the timber, lived in such destitution that he had to wrap his feet in  burlap sacking in place of shoes.  Working in these dire circumstances presented at least one advantage.  Dowdle wrote, 'By laboring in this manner during the winter we made a tolarable good living.'"  p.133

My admiration for the pioneers grew exponentially once more, and I am filled with gratitude for the work and sacrifices they made to help make possible so many blessings we now enjoy--and we in turn  should in our own way focus some of our energies also on making the world a better place for others.


NOTE:  The historical references I have quoted are pretty much all that exists so far, mostly coming from D. Robert Carter's two books pictured below.



The last SPOT TRACKING line from the Buckley Mountain timber slide 
HEADED DIRECTLY FOR WHAT I NEEDED MOST:
McDONALDS 
near the Provo City Mall.
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